Barcelona
SPAIN
"What is very important for me is when I work without working … when I walk, when I do nothing, when I eat. When ideas come to me like that … when it bubbles in my head and in my mind this is what has an enormous importance."
— Joan Miró
Barcelona, Spain
Homebase: Casa Bonay in the Eixample
A boutique design hotel nestled in Dreta de l'Eixample (Eixample Right), Casa Bonay curates a hotel experience akin to a creative refuge. Rooms are tastefully appointed with a minimalist design sense. Thoughtful details abound, from the complimentary glass bottle of water at your bedside, replenished daily, to the colorful graphic coasters for your tea mug. The rain showerhead in the spacious shower stall will make your daily cleanse a delight.
Consider booking one of the Gran Via Large room: from its balcony, outfitted with a teal blue side table and pair of chairs in the company of a stalwart cactus, you can observe the changing colors of the city as the sun rises and sets.
Beyond the rooms, the common spaces of Casa Bonay provide for all other wants to nourish your productivity. Libertine, the hotel's magnificent all-day cafe and lounge, facilitates working, reading, lingering, chatting, relaxing. Skylights let in a soft, natural light that plays across the comfy sofas, cafe tables, leafy floral arrangements, and a stunning chandelier of golden cylindrical lights. All guests have year-round access to the rooftop, which transforms into a public tapas bar during the summer.
The artisan Satan's Coffee Co. also has a spot on the grounds of Casa Bonay (see entry below).
Places of Note
by neighborhood
Eixample
Satan’s Coffee Co.
coffee shop
One of the most respected third-wave cafes in the city has opened a spot at Casa Bonay. You have your choice from a full menu of espresso drinks, plus edibles that include housemade cinnamon rolls, chia seed and yogurt parfaits, and grilled sandwiches. The verdant interior is outfitted with a couple communal tables and bar seating along the wall. In the morning the place bustles with hotel guests, in addition to locals passing by on the street.
Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, 700. website
Bar Velodromo
tapas
Once you’ve dropped your bags off at the hotel, head over to this spot for a welcome-to-Barcelona meal of tapas. The soaring split-level ode to Art Deco (restored from it’s former life as a tavern by the local Moritz brewery) features large windows, light green walls and matching-hued banquettes, a central staircase leading to the balcony, and a stained-glass skylight.
The vibe is casual. Feel free to seat yourself upon walking in and aim for the corner banquette on the ground floor, if available, from where you can survey the pleasant scene: friends catching up over drinks, first dates, solo diners reading the paper, and students studying. Start off by ordering yourself a glass of cava, then the friendly servers, if needed, will help you navigate the rest.
Carrer de Muntaner, 213. website
La Vinícola
wine shop
This bright, welcoming wine shop focuses on Catalan wines, including winemakers right outside of Barcelona. The owner, Víctor Jiménez, is notable for raising the local profile of wines from Northern Catalonia, nowadays known as the region of Roussillon in Southern France. The helpful staff can make recommendations for the perfect wine to accompany your midnight snack of manchego cheese and marcona almonds back at the hotel. La Vinícola also hosts tastings and happenings in their back room.
Carrer de Girona, 123. website
Mini Architectural Itinerary: Sant Pau + La Sagrada Familia
Create a smooth half-day’s itinerary by combining the following two architectural gems:
- The lesser-known Sant Pau Recinte Modernista by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, and
- La Sagrada Familia by Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona's most momentous piece of architecture by it's most famous architect.
Sant Pau Recinte Modernista /
Sant Pau Art Nouveau Site
architecture
Fabulous in its ornate Modernista glory, this former hospital by architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner provides an interesting counterpoint to the architecture of his contemporary, Antoni Gaudí. The site’s life as a functioning hospital, Hospital de la Santa Creu i Sant Pau, spanned the years 1916–2009. Domènech i Montaner conceived an innovative hospital plan that would feature a prominent open space integrated with nature (a recognition of the health benefits associated with verdant surroundings) and freestanding pavilions connected by a network of tunnels that would serve as arteries for delivering supplies.
The site now welcomes the public as a restored cultural center. Walking around, it has the feel of an intimate college campus. The visitor experience starts in the tunnel leading away from the main building. A subtle art projection on the white-tiled walls sets the scene: the site’s former occupants, patients and nurses, walk down the corridor beside you like friendly ghosts from the past.
The history of the site continues to reveal itself as you tour the pavilions. You’ll see a recreation of a patient ward inside the Sant Rafael Pavilion: a sunny day room to receive visitors and beds designed to the specifications of the architect. It was important to him that they be painted in three coats of white enamel paint and numbered with figures from 1 to 28.
Carrer de Sant Quintí, 89. website
Upon exiting the gates of Sant Pau, continue straight ahead and stroll down the pedestrian-friendly Avinguda Gaudí until you arrive at the door of Empanat on your left. This small shop rolls out inspired empanadas for a mid-morning/mid-afternoon energy boost. Spicy tuna, cheese + onion, and ratatouille flavors highly recommended. And say yes when asked if you want them warmed up. There’s no place to sit down inside, so nibble and stroll as you continue walking towards La Sagrada Familia, in view up ahead…
La Sagrada Familia
architecture
Gaudí’s singular creation, began in 1882 and an ongoing work-in-progress, is a thing of beauty, an architecture of light inspired by the forms present in nature. Upon entering the basilica, rows and rows of catenary arches (an arch whose form is determined by gravity) immerse you in a forest of stone trees. Branching upwards, they form the support system for the building.
In a bold move, he relegated all elaborate sculptural elements to the facade, thereby gaining a magnificently open, spare interior dedicated to the beauty of light. Light is the backbone of the experience of La Sagrada Familia. Gaudí believed that the experience of beauty was the most effective way to deliver a message of grace that spoke across different origins and backgrounds.
The stained-glass windows on the eastern side, corresponding with the sunrise and the Nativity facade, feature a patchwork of cool blues and greens that play off the morning sun. On the opposite side, in correspondence with the Passion facade, the stained glass bathes the basilica in the warmth of reds, oranges, and yellows from the light of the setting sun. The effect is breathtaking.
Considering La Sagrada Familia’s infamy for lingering incompleteness, it may come as a surprise that construction is right on schedule. Gaudí estimated 200 years to complete the basilica: after all, he noted, “My client [God] is not in a hurry.” Knowing full-well he would not live to see it through, he made meticulous plaster models for others to follow in carrying out the work, on-view in the onsite museum.
Carrer de Mallorca, 401. website
Buy tickets online in advance. It’s most important to see the interior, although if city views from high up is your thing, and you’re not scared of small enclosed stairwells, you can choose a ticket option that includes access to the towers. Paying extra for a guided tour is worthwhile. When choosing your time slot, you might take into consideration whether you want to see the space flooded in the cool colors of the sun shining through the east-facing windows (morning) or in the warm colors through the west-facing windows (afternoon).
Gràcia
Philo K
home goods / workshop
This ceramic and textile studio will be one of the most special, serene places you’ll encounter in all the city. The objects on display are distinct, yet simple and elegant.
The ceramic pieces are especially striking. At her onsite workshop, the owner/artist works with porcelain, stoneware, and terracotta (a classic material of the region) to create small series of cups, vases, and vessels. Due to a physical limitation she works at small scales, creating forms that can nestle in your palms. The subtle variations in each piece attest to its handmade nature and the beauty of imperfection.
Most importantly, the owner will tell you, each piece you purchase is “made with so much love that at least 50 years of good luck are guaranteed.”
Carrer Topazi 17. website
La Lletera de Gràcia Gelats Artesans
ice cream
This family-run ice cream parlor serves up organic scoops made in the Italian tradition. The texture is light and creamy and everything else you could hope out of the gelato of your dreams. The coconut flavor is exquisite. It’s best to come in the early part of the afternoon so you have a respectable interval before you come back for evening seconds.
Carrer del Torrent de l'Olla, 103. website
Parc Güell
greenspace
Most people climb the hill to the park to see another famous site of Antoni Gaudí’s, but alongside the crowds there exist quieter appeals in the outer reaches of the trodden paths. If you desire access to the “monument” areas with Gaudí’s historic structures, including the memorable overlook bordered with undulating mosaic benches, it’s advisable to buy tickets in advance, since entries are timed and slots sell out.
However, if you wish to experience Parc Güell as a quotidian green respite, you don’t need a ticket. Waltz through the gates on the eastern end of Carrer d’Olot and follow the meandering paths to the mirador (lookout) in the northeastern section of the park. With not so many tourists in this area, you’ll encounter locals out walking their dogs and enjoying sweeping views over Barcelona amidst trees, bushes, and wildflowers.
Entrances to the park off Carrer d’Olot. website
Barri Gòtic (Gothic Quarter)
Granja la Pallaresa
churros
Here is one of the city’s oldest sweet shops for the classic Spanish pairing of churros (in Catalan, xurros) with hot chocolate. The brilliance of this duet of fried dough and dark, pudding-like chocolate must be its ability to fill any void that surfaces in your meal plan—breakfast, midnight snack, hangover cure, anytime tie-me-over.
The interior has the bustle and efficiency of a diner that attracts a cross-generational clientele. When the server comes around to ask for your order, the answer is an easy “xurros amb xocolata.” Or if you feel like a little extra indulgence atop the normal indulgence, you can opt for a xocolata suissa, which means the cup of hot chocolate will come with a dollop of whipped cream.
As you dunk your piping hot churros in gooey chocolate, you'll be in the company of others on the verge, or deep in the process, of consuming the same deliciousness, lending a childlike energy to the whole room.
Carrer de Petritxol 11.
If you’re an avid coffee drinker, and if you generally choose bittersweet over sweet, you might be tempted to have your churros with an espresso drink. What could be a more natural pairing than coffee with a pastry? But it just doesn’t work like that in the case of churros. Go for the cup of chocolate.
Bodega La Palma
tapas
This cozy gastro-bodega has been serving tapas since 1935 in its wine cellar atmosphere. The dining area consists of three tables in the front, more tables in the back and upstairs, and a long bar for people to gather around. The upstairs seating—a sort of enclosed balcony—has a charming cut-out window affording a view of the scene below, but the better choice is to sit downstairs in the midst of the action.
Outstanding menu items include the house’s spicy bravas (fried potato cubes in romesco sauce), mackerel with ratatouille and microgreens, tortilla Española (omelette), magical pea & mint croquettes … It’s all excellent. The space is convivial, infused with strains of conversation in Spanish and other tongues.
La Palma de Sant Just, 7. website
El Raval
Kiosko Universal at La Boqueria Market
tapas
La Boqueria market being an obligatory stop for any first-time visitor to Barna, you’ll be glad to have a goal in mind when approaching so as not to be deterred by the flow of tourists that threaten its charms. Kiosko Universal, a seafood bar at the market’s southeast corner, will be your haven, and a meal here will more than reward you for braving the crowds of La Boqueria.
Don’t worry if the bar is full: seats open up quickly. Once you’ve settled into yours, be sure to get the prawns with olive oil and garlic (gambas al ajillo). The prawns melt in your mouth and are of a freshness that cannot be denied, since you can witness the soon-to-be-cooked prawns still waving their feelers on the ice bed in front of you. You don’t necessarily want to dwell on the sight, but it does serve as good advertising.
Mercat de la Boqueria, Parada 691.
Sant Pere / El Born
Palau de la Música Catalana
architecture / performance space
The bejeweled Palau de la Música was built by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, the same architect as Sant Pau Recinte Modernista. The elaborate ornamentation, in addition to the musical program, turns the building into a life-sized functioning music box.
While you can sign up for a tour, the most natural and memorable way to experience the interior is by attending a concert. The programming is extensive, so you can likely find something that suits your schedule and interests. If possible, select any seat in the first row of the first balcony, which curves around the stage. From here you will have an ideal view of the performers and, just as importantly, of the spectacular stained-glass dome that drops from the ceiling in the center of the theater—the architectural jewel of the concert hall.
C/ Palau de la Música, 4-6. website
For a post-show nightcap:
Bar Sant Pere down the street (Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt, 28) is a cozy perch with an inviting bar and a sofa/coffee table option. You can’t go wrong with a glass of vermouth, garnished with olives and an orange slice, and order of pan con tomate (in Catalan, pa amb tomaquet) on pan de cristal, a type of thin, doughy bread.
Chandal
home goods
The lovely thing about this shop is that the more time you spend here, the more things you’ll find to admire. It’s a slightly eclectic collection of rather exquisite craftsmanship and artistry.
The many local designers showcased have a colorful sensibility and nuanced approach to texture and materials, evident in the handmade backpacks for urbanites by Ölend and the rim-glazed, paint-speckled ceramics by Moeva. They also carry several home and desk objects by the Danish design sweetheart Hay. A large swath of wall is devoted to design, art, and lifestyle publications.
Carrer d'en Tantarantana, 16. website
Poble-sec ("dry town")
La Platilleria
tapas
La Platilleria exudes the sort of easy charm that you dream of finding at your ideal neighborhood joint. Windows along two sides look out over its corner spot on a hill. Seating consists of high top tables, a couple sidewalk tables, and a bar from where you can take in the kitchen action off to the side.
To start, order a house vermouth or other drink of choice, which comes with a much appreciated bowl of mixed nuts. A friendly staff member will bring over a mini tabletop chalkboard listing the daily specials, which might include a cod salad with beans or razor clams. And of course they have the classic standards, like pan con tomate and bravas. Finish off the meal with an espresso or cortado, served with a complimentary glass of sparkling water.
Carrer del Roser, 82.
Montjuïc
Barcelona Pavilion
architecture
This exquisite work by Mies van der Rohe and Lilly Reich captures the promise of modern architecture. With an entrance fee of just 5 euros, it's also one of the cities most affordable architectural gems.
The building consists of floating planes of walls and floors that delineate the fluid series of rooms in the open floor plan. Two shallow reflecting pools anchor the experience of the space. One of the pools opens up to the park beyond; the other, semi-enclosed, flows around Georg Kolbe's sculpture Der Morgan (The Dawn).
The pavilion is a meditation on Mies van der Rohe’s mantra “less is more.” Although minimalistic, there is a textural richness that comes from the integrity of the different materials in juxtaposition—marble (of both a rosy brown and bluish green type), onyx, travertine, steel, glass. No paint, coatings, or decorative elements are applied in a desire to show the materials for what they are. The pavilion also houses the famous Barcelona chair, designed by Reich and van der Rohe specifically for the site.
Originally called the German National Pavilion, it was commissioned on the occasion of the 1928 Barcelona International Exposition. Afterwards it was dismantled, as planned, then subsequently reconstructed at the original site in 1986, spurred by Mies van der Rohe’s international fame.
Av. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia, 7. website
Footnotes
Transportation to/from BCN airport:
A quick and painless way to get into the city center is via the R2 Nord RENFE train. Trains run approximately every 30 minutes, from 5:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. Upon arriving in Barcelona,
- Make your way to Terminal 2B, following the signs for R2 Nord, which will eventually lead you up and over a long covered walkway.
- At the station, buy a T10 card. This is the best deal, good for 10 rides on the Metro and the R2 Nord. The card is stamped and returned to you each time you go through the turnstile. Note: There’s a bar at the train station if you need coffee or a simple sandwich (bocadillo), but you must enter the bar from outside the station and get your fix before you go through the turnstile.
- The train makes two stops within the city center: Estació Sants and Passeig de Gràcia. At either of these stations you can transfer for free to the Metro. (To get to Casa Bonay, get off at Passeig de Gràcia. From there it’s a pleasant 10-minute walk.)
- To get back out to the airport, do the reverse of what you did to get in. (When you enter at Estació Sants or Passeig de Gràcia, look to the screens for the platform number assignment for the Aeroport train.)
DIY pan con tomate:
If you order the classic tapas dish pan con tomate at a restaurant, you may be served with the ingredients disassembled. If so, here’s what you do:
- Rub garlic clove vigorously onto bread. (If the garlic is unpeeled, don’t worry. The peel doesn’t interfere with the bread smothering and serves to protect your fingers from essence of garlic.)
- Rub/lightly massage tomato half onto bread.
- Drizzle with olive oil.
- Sprinkle salt, to taste.
Barna vs Barça:
The nickname for Barcelona is Barna. Barça refers to the soccer club FC Barcelona.
A decent airport hotel, in case of emergency:
If your plane is delayed or you’re in need of an impromptu place to lay down your head, Sallés Hotel Ciutat del Prat (Av. Remolar, 46 in El Prat de Llobregat) is friendly and clean. It’s situated in the workaday town adjacent the airport, with several cafes, shops, pharmacies, and plazas. Shuttle service provided to/from the airport.
